HIGH ALPINE ADVANCED
ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
4 days
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
550,- €
ABOUT THE TRAINING
Zwischen Gletscher, Firn und Fels lernst du in diesem fortgeschrittenen Hochtourenkurs, dich im kombinierten Gelände mit Übersicht und Gefühl zu bewegen.
4 Tage
Kombinierte Hochtouren sind die Königsdisziplin des klassischen Alpinismus. Hier kommen Seil- und Sicherungstechniken in Eis und Firn ebenso wie im Fels zusammen und erfordern ein breites Repertoire. In diesem Hochtourenkurs in Zusammenarbeit mit Ortovox bekommst du das Rüstzeug, um dich in der alpinen Umgebung sicher und selbstständig zu bewegen. Eine sorgfältige Planung und Vorbereitung sind dabei unerlässlich, um alpine Risiken früh zu erkennen und richtig einzuschätzen. Wir legen großen Wert auf die Auswahl und den sicheren Umgang mit deiner Ausrüstung, einschließlich der Knotentechniken, die dich in verschiedensten Situationen unterstützen. Wir bringen dir nicht nur die sichere Handhabung von Seil, Pickel und Steigeisen bei, sondern auch wie du dich eigenständig auf Gletschern sowie in Felspassagen und auf Graten bewegst und dich unterwegs orientierst. Natürlich kommen auch die Rettungstechniken nicht zu kurz, und du lernst, wie du dich selbst oder deine Seilkameraden nach einem Spaltensturz aus der Gletscherspalte herausbekommst. Nach dem Kurs hast du das Werkzeug, um selbstständig und mit einem guten Gefühl auf Gletschertouren unterwegs zu sein und dich an schöne Felsgrate in den Alpen heranzutasten.
TRAINING CONTENT
✧ Alpine hazards & weather knowledge
✧ Equipment, kit & knot skills
✧ Introduction to tour planning and preparation
✧ Navigation on tour
✧ Independent travel on glaciers as a rope team
✧ Moving with rope, ice axe & crampons
✧ Front-pointing technique & frontal crampon technique
✧ Building belays in neve & ice
✧ Crevasse rescue by self-rescue
✧ Crevasse rescue using a simple pulley
✧ Crevasse rescue using a pulley system
✧ Falling techniques and arresting falls
✧ Rope techniques and knots on rock
✧ Building belays on rock
✧ Belaying methods on rock sections
✧ Efficient and safe progress in mixed terrain – moving on a short rope, short-pitching, etc.
✧ With crampons on rock
✧ Environmental aspects and the rapid changes on glaciers
✧ Practice tour to finish
INFO
Services
Included in the price
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs
- 3 overnight stays with half board in a hut (mountain guide fees are split among all participants)
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location
South Tyrol
Best time of year
June - September
Duration
4 days
Meeting point
is agreed individually
Requirements
Prior knowledge
- None, we will get to know the world of combined mountaineering from the ground up.
But:
- A previous mountaineering or climbing course is advantageous, as there is a lot of input during these four days.
Physical requirements
- Fitness for mountain tours with up to 1,200 meters of elevation
- Surefootedness
PRICING
Participants
5 - 6 people
Prices
1 - 4 people:
5 people or more:
upon request
550,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach and fundamentals
We meet at the agreed meeting point and carry out a short equipment check at the starting point of our glacier course before beginning the ascent to the hut. In the afternoon, we take a look at the equipment used on mixed glacier tours as well as the basics of travelling on glaciers and rock ridges. We will also bring all participants to the same level in terms of knots, which we will need over the coming days. In the evening, we talk about alpine hazards encountered in the mountains and what we need to pay attention to both in tour planning and while out on the mountain in order to minimise risk as much as possible.
Day 2: Training on ice
On the second day, we head onto the glacier. Through a range of exercises, we refine the participants' crampon technique. We learn how to move with crampons and ice axe on hard ground and what options there are for progressing safely on ice and neve. Falling and arresting properly also need to be learned and practised. We show you how we rope up as a rope team on the glacier and move safely, and which rescue methods are available in the event of a crevasse fall. We will introduce both self-rescue and pulley systems, and you will then be able to practise them thoroughly. In the evening, we discuss environmental influences as well as the consequences and rapid changes on glaciers resulting from climate change.
Day 3: Training on rock
After ice and snow, the third day takes us onto rock. Here, completely new rope techniques come into play, and we show you how to move effectively and safely on rock. With everything that goes with it: building belays, short-pitching, moving on a short rope, rope extension, rope shortening and much more. Later in the afternoon, back at the hut, there are valuable tips and information on the subject of tour planning. In the evening, the task for the course participants will then be to plan the shared practice tour for the final day.
Day 4: Shared practice tour
The fourth and final day is all about the tour planned the evening before. All learning content will flow into this day, and we will put everything we have learned into practice in order to reach the summit safely and return to the car park.
Info: The programme is not set in stone. In the mountains, we have to adapt to the conditions on site as well as to the weather. That is why we will rearrange the content if needed to get the most out of these 4 days, even if the weather does not play along once in a while! =)
Any changes to the program that may be necessary for various reasons (weather, conditions, accommodation booking situation, etc.) will always be made in consultation with the participants.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the High Alpine Advanced course intended for?
The course is intended for anyone who already has some initial mountain experience and wants to develop specifically in the areas of high alpine tours, glaciers and mixed terrain. If you do not just want to come along, but really want to understand and apply the techniques, this is the right place for you.
What equipment do I need for the course?
You will receive the exact packing list with the confirmation email. The most important items are suitable crampons and an ice axe. Missing equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear fee.
Does the course take place in all weather conditions?
In principle yes, but the programme is adapted to the weather and conditions. Especially in the high mountains, a little flexibility is part of the game. In this way, we get as much as possible out of the four days, even if something has to be rearranged now and then.
