
HIGH ALPINE ADVANCED
ORTOVOX SAFETY ACADEMY
4 days

Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com

Prices from
550,- €

ABOUT THE TRAINING
Ortovox Safety Academy - High Alpine Advanced Mountaineering Course: Combined mountaineering is the pinnacle of classic mountaineering. It combines all types of rope and belay techniques, both on ice and firn snow and on rock, and requires a broad repertoire of rope and belay techniques.
Experience the world of glaciers with our SAFETY ACADEMY mountaineering course in collaboration with Ortovox! Our comprehensive training provides you with the tools you need to navigate safely and successfully in alpine environments. Careful planning and preparation are essential for quickly identifying and avoiding potential alpine risks. We place particular emphasis on the selection and safe use of your equipment, including important knot-tying techniques that will support you in a variety of situations.
We will not only teach you how to safely handle ropes, ice axes, and crampons, but also how to navigate independently and safely on glaciers, rocky passages, and ridges, and how to orient yourself along the way. Of course, rescue techniques are also covered, and you'll learn how to get yourself or your rope buddies out of a crevasse if you fall into one. After the course, you'll have the tools to immerse yourself independently and confidently in the fascinating world of glacier touring and will be able to explore the most beautiful rocky ridges in the Alps.

TRAINING CONTENT
- Alpine hazards and meteorology
- Materials, equipment, and knot tying
- Introduction to tour planning and preparation
- Orientation on the tour
- Independent glacier climbing as a roped team
- Walking with rope, ice axe, and crampons
- Vertical and frontal crampon techniques
- Belay station construction in firn and ice (ice screws, T-anchors)
- Crevasse rescue using self-rescue
- Crevasse rescue using a loose pulley
- Crevasse rescue using pulleys
- Falling techniques and arresting falls
- Rope techniques and knots on rock
- Belay station construction on rock
- Belay methods for rocky passages
- Progressing effectively and safely in mixed terrain (short rope walking, micro-pitches, etc.)
- Using crampons on rock
- Environmental aspects and rapid changes on glaciers
- Practice tour

INFO
Services
Included in the price
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs
- 3 overnight stays with half board in a hut (mountain guide fees are split among all participants)
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location
South Tyrol
Best time of year
June - September
Duration
4 days
Meeting point
is agreed individually
Requirements
Prior knowledge
- None, we will get to know the world of combined mountaineering from the ground up.
But:
- A previous mountaineering or climbing course is advantageous, as there is a lot of input during these four days.
Physical requirements
- Fitness for mountain tours with up to 1,200 meters of elevation
- Surefootedness

PRICING

PROGRAM
Day 1: Hut Approach, Basics and Equipment Knowledge, Knot Tying, Alpine Hazards
We will meet at the agreed meeting point and conduct a brief equipment check at the starting point of our glacier course before beginning the ascent to the hut. In the afternoon, we will review the equipment required for combined glacier tours and the basics of climbing glaciers and rocky ridges. We will also bring all participants up to speed on knot tying, which we will need in the coming days. In the evening, we will discuss the alpine hazards that occur in the mountains and what we need to pay attention to both when planning our tours and on the trail to minimize risk as much as possible.
Day 2: On Ice - Belaying and securing methods, proper walking with crampons and ice axe, falling, stopping falls, crevasse rescue
On the second day, we head out onto the glacier. Using various exercises, we will hone the participants' crampon technique. We'll learn how to move with crampons and ice axes on the hard ground, and what options there are for moving safely on ice and firn. Falling and braking correctly also require learning and practice. We'll show you how to connect and move safely as a rope team on the glacier, as well as what rescue methods are available in the event of a crevasse fall. We'll introduce you to both self-rescue and pulley systems, which you can then practice diligently. In the evening, we'll discuss environmental influences and the rapid and consequential changes on glaciers resulting from climate change.
Day 3: On the Rock - Rope Techniques on Rock, Belay Station Construction and Belay Techniques, Effective Belaying of Rock Ridges
After the ice and snow, the third day will take us to the rock. This is where completely new rope techniques come into play, and we'll show you how to move effectively and safely on rock. We'll cover everything that comes with it: Belay Station Construction, micro-pitch climbing, short rope walking, rope lengthening, rope shortening, and much more. Back at the hut in the late afternoon, we'll provide valuable tips and information on tour planning. In the evening, the course participants will be tasked with planning the group practice tour for the final day.
Day 4: Practice Tour
The fourth and final day will be dedicated to the tour planned the previous evening. All course content will be incorporated into this day, and we will implement everything we've learned to reach the summit and back to the parking lot safely.
Important: The program is not set in stone. In the mountains, we have to adapt to the local conditions and the weather. Therefore, we will shift the content around as needed to get the most out of these four days, even if the weather doesn't cooperate! =)
Any changes to the program that may be necessary for various reasons (weather, conditions, accommodation booking situation, etc.) will always be made in consultation with the participants.


