Alpine tour
Turnerkamp
South Ridge (V)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
420,- €
ABOUT THE TOUR
On Turnerkamp, the South Ridge offers a long, sunny granite line that delights both the climber’s heart and the mountaineer’s mind.
V (UIAA) · 2 days · Zillertal Alps
Right on the main Alpine divide in the Zillertal Alps lies one of South Tyrol’s finest granite climbing routes. Varied block climbing on superb granite. Exposed and spiced up with several punchy sections at grade IV as well as a crux at grade V, the route leads to a magnificent panoramic summit in the Tauferer Ahrntal.
Starting from the South Tyrolean side, from the car park at Neves Stausee, the route ascends from the south along the long rock ridge that separates the “Östlicher Nößferner” from the “Trattenbachkees”, reaching the summit of Turnerkamp in sunny and, for long stretches, highly enjoyable climbing. Combined with a longer abseil descent via the Engländerrinne down onto the glacier, followed by the descent across glaciated terrain, this is an exceptionally varied tour that offers just about everything you could want from a complete alpine experience. And all of it away from the crowds. Mountaineer’s heart, what more could you want?!
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- 1 x half-board overnight stay at the Chemnitzer Hütte
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Zillertaler Alpen
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Chemnitzer Hut
What you need
Requirements:
- Surefootedness and ability to climb quickly on easy boulder terrain (I-II)
- Good fitness for approximately 1,100 meters of elevation gain (most of which is on pathless terrain)
- Tour duration approximately 10 hours
- No fear of heights
PRICING
Participants:
1 - 2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
700,- €
420,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the hut
The starting point and parking area for this tour is at Neves Stausee at the head of the Mühlwalder Tal, a side valley of the Ahrntal, above Lappach. From the car park, follow the marked trail no. 24 to the Chemnitzer Hütte at Növesjoch. A short but beautiful approach that leaves plenty of time to arrive at the hut in a relaxed way and settle into the mood for the long summit day ahead.
Walking time: 1.5 h | ↑ 600 m
⌂ Chemnitzer Hütte
Day 2: South Ridge and descent
Early in the morning, we meet directly at the Chemnitzer Hütte and set off together towards the start of the South Ridge on Turnerkamp. Before long, the terrain becomes pathless and we reach the notch where the climbing begins. Here we rope up and follow the superb granite in engaging climbing. Enjoyable ridge climbing leads upward, interspersed with several sections at grade IV. The crux is a slab at grade V after about two thirds of the route. The climbing keeps us pleasantly challenged at regular intervals all the way to the summit – just enough for us to fully enjoy the summit and the panorama along the main Alpine divide. After that comes the abseil line via the Engländerrinne down onto the glacier and the descent back to the car park at Neves Stausee.
Total time: 11 h | ↑ 1,100 m | ↓ 1,700 m | Difficulty: V (UIAA)
Info: For very fit mountaineers and fast climbers, the tour is also possible as a day trip without an overnight stay in the hut. With the additional 600 metres of ascent, however, it becomes a very long and physically demanding day. An overnight stay at the very well-run Chemnitzer Hütte is recommended. The price as a day trip remains the same.
Any changes to the program that may be necessary for various reasons (weather, conditions, accommodation booking situation, etc.) will always be made in consultation with the participants.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the South Ridge on Turnerkamp suitable for?
The tour is ideal for fit mountaineers with solid rock climbing experience. The South Ridge is long, exposed, and still demands concentration on the descent. Anyone who enjoys real ridge climbing will have a truly excellent day here.
Is the tour also possible without an overnight stay in the hut?
Yes, it is possible as a day tour for very fit and fast mountaineers. Because of the additional ascent from Neves Stausee, however, the day becomes significantly longer and more demanding. For that reason, an overnight stay at the Chemnitzer Hütte is in most cases the much more pleasant option.
What equipment do I need to bring?
The detailed packing list comes with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for a long alpine tour. Technical equipment, including items such as crampons where required by conditions, can be hired from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
